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Car Mechanic Simulator 2018 – Oil Checking

22 November 2017, Wednesday, 0:24:32

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Oil Checking

-Before you start anything on the car, it is good practice to check the oil FIRST whether it is on the work order or not. It’s the dipstick with the yellow ring.

-Low oil (as in under min/barley any on the tip of the stick ) or no oil will cause engine damage. And yeah, real life customers have brought cars in like that asking why the engine is knocking. Best way to throw rods out the side of the engine block….

-Don’t pour the oil until it comes bubbling out at the top over the valve cover. On a real engine you run into the risk of hydro-lock. Because you can’t compress a liquid, also oil would be leaking out the dipstick tube and burning out the exhaust destroying the catalytic converter and be leaking every wear, from being blown through PCV lines, destroying air filters and sensors, to leaking all over the engine. Because the valve cover and oil pan gaskets are made to retain, not hold oil.

A un-needed high costly out of your pocket repair mess. And you would not be paid for fixing damages you made. To do so could land you in a law suit in court. So instead of finding yourself draining out the oil to do it again, just pour a estimate small amount , and recheck the oil level on the dip stick again, continue until the amount is correct. Do not exceed max. A fill to max level is normal in the states. But for the game in between Max and Min will be fine. Eventually you will get good enough that it will take less time because your estimate pour time will get better. Yeah it’s a game, yeah the game doesn’t penalize you for it, but why start a bad practice to begin with. It is how it is done on a real car… Besides, what if a update came available that prevents you from releasing the car or test drive it when its over filled? You would already be ready for that.

If the oil is black, give it a quick change before taking anywhere. And don’t forget the oil filter, That is what you do anyway in a shop. Maybe a game, but it is a very real life task done the same way. Here is the reasoning, if you drain dirty oil it makes no sense to filter the clean oil in a dirty filter, just like it makes no sense to change the filter and not the oil, why would you want to filter dirty oil through a clean filter. If you change them, both, then your done with it for the next few 100 miles/hours altogether.

*Why check the oil? If your working in your auto shop, and you take the customer car for a test run, and the engine burns up or seizes, it would be your fault, because your the mechanic, so you know better than the customer, you will be responsible for that car. So the Bull part is really your disregard for intrusted property by a customer that is relying on you for the help. So it would be best to do so as a shop practice when you get a car in. Think about it, you get a car with dirty oil, that is a extra job then. Because dirty oil is damaging to the internal parts with in the engine block. You have parts moving faster than the blink of the eye and some well over 1000 RPMs creating heat. The hotter, the more wear and tear. The dirtier the oil, the faster the engine wears down. When its black in color, its more friction base sludge than a proper lubricant. Dirty oil can cause improper worn or broken parts in the engine. Low or next to no oil will destroy a engine in seconds. It may not be seem like it, until you hear a slight knocking noise and some smoke. There goes your pocket money.

*There are achievements for over pouring and dumping oil on the floor. To dump oil on the floor remove the oil pan from the engine when it is full..

 

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